Jiv D is a London based fashion stylist, designer and creative director. He has worked on publications including Centrefold Magazine, WIG, The A and Touch Magazine, and styled acts including Kelis, Dizzee Rascal, All Saints and Charlie XCX. He frequently works with hairdressing brands including TIGI and Toni & Guy, and has worked closely with Anthony & Pat Mascolo for years. Infringe spoke to him about his inspirations, techniques and what it is like styling for the hair industry.
How did you get into styling?I’ve always loved imagery. I love photography, and all I ever wanted to do was manipulate images. I realised quite quickly that as a stylist you have a lot of influence over the content of an image. While studying for a degree in Design and Media, I met a designer that had a brand stocking at Hyper Hyper. I ended up working for him, first of all just helping him out, and eventually I ended up designing his collections.
What inspires you? To me the female form is stunning. It’s always different, and the way that women move is always different, depending on their personality and life experiences. That, I think is the underlying inspiration – how to portray that form in a new way. Research to me is probably the most important thing, you can never stop learning. I’m constantly looking at videos, blogs… everything really. Instagram is a fantastic research tool, because everyone is kind of promoting themselves, but they are also showing off their latest work, their latest ideas, their latest way of thinking.
"A lot of the design process happens in the pattern cutting, the draping, the construction"
What is your favourite material to work with? I wouldn’t say that I have a favourite material; it’s exploring the possibility of a material or a technique that excites me. Lately I’ve been working a lot with plastic, latex and leather, and experimenting with 3D printing. With surface treatments and new technologies emerging, there’s so much you can do with it. It’s about exploring what those basic materials can do, and turning this into something that can stand alone, either as a fashion garment, or a sculpture. The main reason I like those materials is because of their sculptural properties. I’ve been researching a lot of architecture, which I absolutely love, especially hard, angular architecture, in places like Berlin. Going to lots of exhibitions, travelling around the world… it’s all influenced my designs.
Can you tell us about the process of designing a piece? It’s all based around the body or the individual. I start with the mannequin or model, and just start enveloping them. Lately I’ve been using very old dressmaking techniques; taking a piece of fabric, pinning it and draping it, starting to create the bust and envelope the mannequin. I’m doing the same thing but just with modern, structured materials. It’s the same principal, you start building from one point, constantly swivelling the mannequin to see how it balances. Often you draw something and think – wow, that’s it, that’s what I want it to look like. But then you find that a lot of the design process happens in the pattern cutting, the draping, the construction. I try to let it evolve naturally.
You often work with hairdressers, for example your work with Anthony & Pat Mascolo and TIGI. How do you translate the hairdresser’s idea into styling? With Anthony and Pat, we’ve worked together so closely for so many years that it’s very intuitive. What I do is try to fully understand what they want to portray, what they want to achieve. The focal point is the vision they have for the hair and make-up, and the styling leads from that. So I have to complement it, and make it understandable, but not fight with it. I think if you can find that balance that’s the key. It’s not about showing off as a stylist, it’s not about me; it’s all about the final image.
Interview Anthony Mascolo Images courtesy of Jiv D Website Video Panos Damaskinidis